How to Fix a Leaky Faucet in 5 Simple Steps
A faucet that drips once every few seconds doesn't seem like a big deal — until you do the math. A single leaky faucet can waste more than 3,000 gallons of water a year, enough to fill a small swimming pool. The good news: on most compression-style faucets, the fix is a washer that costs less than a dollar and about twenty minutes of your Saturday.
Here's how to tackle it yourself, step by step.
What you'll need
- Adjustable wrench or a set of Allen keys
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Replacement washers, O-rings, or a cartridge (bring the old part to the hardware store to match it)
- Plumber's grease
- A rag or towel to plug the drain
Step 1: Shut off the water
Look under the sink for the two shutoff valves and turn them clockwise until snug. No valves under there? You'll need to shut off the water at your home's main valve instead. Once it's off, open the faucet to release any pressure and remaining water in the line.
Step 2: Plug the drain and remove the handle
Drop a rag into the drain so you don't lose any small screws or springs down it — this is the step most people skip and regret. Most handles are held on by a single screw, often hidden under a decorative cap on top. Pop the cap off with a flathead screwdriver, remove the screw, and lift the handle straight up.
Step 3: Get to the valve stem or cartridge
With the handle off, you'll typically find a retaining nut. Loosen it with your wrench and pull out the stem or cartridge. Take a close look at the rubber washer or O-ring at the bottom — if it's cracked, flattened, or torn, you've likely found your culprit.
Step 4: Replace the worn part
Swap in a new washer or O-ring of the same size, and coat it lightly with plumber's grease before reassembling. If you have a cartridge-style faucet, this is where you'd swap in the new cartridge instead of a washer.
Step 5: Reassemble and test
Put everything back in the reverse order you took it apart, turn the water back on slowly, and test the faucet. A little resistance when tightening the retaining nut is normal — cranking it down too hard can crack the housing.
When it's more than a washer
If you've replaced the washer and the faucet still drips, or if you notice water pooling under the sink instead of just at the spout, you might be dealing with a corroded valve seat or a supply line connection that's failed — not something a new washer will solve. That's usually the point where continuing to tinker risks turning a five-dollar fix into a flooded cabinet.
If your faucet is still leaking after a straightforward parts swap, or you're not comfortable working around your home's shutoff valves, it's worth having a licensed plumber take a look before a small drip becomes a bigger repair.